Emily Nussbaum reviews “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelpha” for the New Yorker:
In the fiftieth episode of “It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia,” two pathetic drunks, Dennis and Mac, brainstorm about an online personal ad for their deadbeat friend Charlie. When they get to his favorite food, Charlie tells them that it’s “milk-steak.” They stare at him, dumbfounded.
“Just put regular steak,” Mac says.
“Don’t put steak, put milk-steak,” Charlie says with confidence. “She’ll know what it is.”
Since it débuted, in 2005, “Always Sunny” has become the milk-steak of sitcoms: the perfect food that no one has ever heard of. In a fairer universe, it would be heralded as not merely the best sitcom on television but one of the most arresting and ambitious current TV series, period.
Sunny is easily one of my favorite shows on TV. When my son was born in January and I was up late with him, I’d buy a season from iTunes, watch episode after episode until the season was done, then move on to the next. It’s the only comedy I can think of that had me laughing out loud almost every episode. Truly a fantastic show, and as the review points out, it seems to fly completely under the radar.